If you’re looking for one of the most spectacular coastal voyages in the world, look no further than Norway’s famous Hurtigruten route - it is for you!
Jennifer and her mom onboard the Havila Castor, enjoying the scenic Norwegian fjords during their Hurtigruten voyage from Bergen to Kirkenes.
Jennifer Wesslau, founder and CEO of Bag-all, recently embarked on an unforgettable journey with Hurtigruten — the legendary coastal route along Norway’s breathtaking western shoreline.
The voyage began in Bergen, a charming city in the south, and concluded in Kirkenes, far above the Arctic Circle. With 33 stops along the way, Hurtigruten offers a unique way to experience Norway’s dramatic fjords, remote villages, and bustling harbor towns.
Jennifer recommends traveling south to north, as this direction ensures that key stops in cities like Ålesund, Trondheim, and Tromsøhappen during daylight hours — perfect for exploring.
Jennifer and her extended family made the journey aboard the Havila Castor — a sleek, modern ship with sustainable features and spectacular panoramic views. With its relaxed atmosphere, Nordic design, and comfortable cabins, the Castor made the perfect home base for this once-in-a-lifetime adventure along Norway’s legendary coastal highway.
From left to right Jennifers three daughters and cousin Vendela: Margaux, Vendela, Celeste, and Caprice standing in front of the Havila Castor ship, docked at the harbor.
What is the Hurtigruten route?
Scenic view of a waterfall cascading down the cliffs into the fjord, captured along the Hurtigruten journey through Norway.
The Hurtigruten coastal express is sometimes called “The World’s Most Beautiful Sea Voyage.” It traces Norway’s dramatic western coastline from Bergen in the south to Kirkenes in the far north, above the Arctic Circle, visiting small towns, fjords, and islands along the way.
Hurtigruten was founded in 1893 as a vital postal and passenger service along the rugged Norwegian coast. The name Hurtigrutenliterally means “the fast route” in Norwegian, because at the time it provided the quickest and most reliable connection between southern and northern Norway, carrying both mail and passengers.
It connected remote coastal communities that otherwise had very limited access to the outside world, stopping at numerous small ports along the way — often places that were unreachable by land. Over time, cargo and car transport became part of its operations as well, and today Hurtigruten is best known for its scenic voyages and cruise-like experience, although it still carries some mail, cargo, and local passengers as part of its legacy service.
The Ship: Modern and Eco-conscious
Havila Castor is one of the newest ships sailing the Hurtigruten route. Launched in 2022, this ship stands out for several reasons:
• Sustainable design: It runs on liquefied natural gas (LNG) and has large battery packs, making it one of the most eco-friendly ships on the route.
• Norwegian cuisine: All meals onboard highlight local, seasonal ingredients sourced from ports along the journey.
• Quiet and smooth sailing: Thanks to modern engines and battery operation, the Castor glides almost silently through the fjords — a real treat when watching the coastline from deck.
The Itinerary:Bergen to Kirkenes
From left to right: Celeste, Jennifer, Margaux, and Caprice on the deck of the Havila Castor, taking in the dramatic fjord views during their Hurtigruten adventure.
The full voyage takes 6 nights and 7 days and visits 34 ports, including famous stops such as:
• Ålesund: Art Nouveau architecture and a gateway to fjords.
• Geirangerfjord (in summer): A UNESCO World Heritage fjord.
• Trondheim: Norway’s historic capital with the beautiful Nidaros Cathedral.
• Bodø: A lively Arctic city.
• Tromsø: The “Gateway to the Arctic.”
• Honningsvåg and Nordkapp: The northernmost point in mainland Europe.
• Kirkenes: Near the Russian border and far into the Arctic wilderness.
Each day offers spectacular scenery: towering cliffs, tiny fishing villages, midnight sun (in summer), or northern lights (in winter). The ship operates like a working ferry, so it docks frequently — giving passengers the opportunity to explore many towns or just watch the comings and goings from the deck.
Life on Board
Celeste relaxing in the panoramic lounge of the Havila Castor, soaking in the sunset views along the Norwegian coast.
• Dining: Meals are served à la carte (not buffet-style like some traditional cruises). The menus change every third day and reflect Norwegian culinary traditions. The only thing we didn't like was the rigid schedule for seating in the restaurant. If you missed your time slot due to the time conflicting with a port stop - no food for you! No matter that the food was included and paid for.
• Lounges and panoramic views: The lounges on Castor are designed for relaxation, with huge windows that keep the dramatic landscape front and center.
• Wellness area: There are two hot tubs on deck — nothing beats relaxing in warm water while gliding past snow-capped mountains. There is two smaller gym areas and two saunas, his and hers.
Celeste relaxing in the panoramic lounge of the Havila Castor, soaking in the sunset views along the Norwegian coast.
Crafting session at sea. Celeste and Margaux working on handmade jewelry in the ship’s lounge with scenic views outside.
Kids gathered in the panoramic lounge enjoying a cozy beading and DIY session during the Hurtigruten cruise.
We are playing cards in the lounge, wrapped in warm sweaters as the ship sails past the Norwegian coastline.
Breakfast with a view in the dining room on board Havila Castor, overlooking the peaceful Norwegian sea.
Who Is This Journey For?
This is not a typical cruise — there’s no entertainment program, casinos, or shopping malls. Instead, it’s a slow-travel experience designed for those who want to relax, unplug, and immerse themselves in nature and Norwegian culture.
Travelers of all ages will appreciate:
• Photographers: The landscape is breathtaking.
• Food lovers: Authentic Norwegian flavors.
• Adventurers: Excursions like dog sledding, king crab fishing, and hikes are available at many ports.
• Winter travelers: Opportunities to see the northern lights. Summer travelers, like us, get to see the midnight sun after passing the Polar circle. I was surprised by how bright the light is after midnight, I had expected it to be more dim.
Jennifer with her sister during an outdoor excursion, standing in front of a cliffside waterfall along the Norwegian coast.
Celeste and Margaux with her aunt on the deck of Havila Castor, bundled up and enjoying the crisp ocean air.
Jennifer's parents getting ready to board the ship in one of the Hurtigruten port towns, with a sunny day and blue skies.
Relaxing on the upper deck of Havila Castor with family and friends, soaking up the sun and views of the Norwegian landscape.
Jennifer taking a quick selfie on board, wrapped in cozy layers as the ship sails through chilly northern waters.
A playful moment captured in front of the Havila Castor ship before boarding, full of excitement for the journey ahead.
Reaching the North Cape. Jennifer and two of her daughters pose under the famous globe monument at Norway’s northernmost point.
Some Points:
• The trip is quite expensive. We opted for the inside cabins without windows and spent all our time outdoors on deck or in the lounges. The boat never feels crowded although it was completely full when we made the journey.
• Dress in layers: even in summer, it can get chilly on deck.
• Choose your season carefully: summer = midnight sun; winter = northern lights.
• Bring binoculars for bird and wildlife watching. We saw whales, dolphins, eagles and reindeer.
